
(
WRITER'S NOTE: This series of blog posts is about a trip I took
to Cambodia to report on a story for the San Angelo Standard-Times that
took place between Sept. 27 - Oct. 17, 2011.)
Tuesday, Oct. 4, 2011: Today was dominated by yet another long bus ride. But instead of the Greyhound bus ride from hell, we chartered our own 14-passenger bus for the trip back to Sisophon. Toro's nieces made an excellent breakfast for everyone at the house, we packed our bags and and hit the road. We made routine stops along the way to grab a snack or use the bathroom. And the bus is, my opinion, still the best way to see the countryside. Cambodia is a land of flowing water, eternal green and the eternal smile, a smile that graces the face of just about everyone you meet. The people here are so gracious and friendly and would do just about anything for you. And Toro's family is no exception.

I received a warm reception again when we arrived back at Lor's house in Sisophon. This time there were more people to be introduced to and another meal to eat, but I noticed we were missing someone. My sweet little Cambodian grandmother, La, was not with us. I followed a few people up the stairs to the second floor and noticed that everyone was congregating in a tight circle around someone laying on the floor. It was La, looking weak, pale and shaking in pain. A few days earlier La had gotten an infection in one of her back teeth and it had started to spread to the rest of her body. Now she had a serious fever and was too weak to take food or water. A local nurse was summoned to the house and promptly arrived on her motorcycle with the necessary medical supplies. Antibiotics were administered along with an IV drip. La looked so frail and weak, almost to frail to touch without causing her any more discomfort. But the nurse said that the medication should start to take affect soon and she should be feeling better in the morning. Convinced that the nurse knew what she was talking about we left La to sleep and headed back down stairs to fellowship with the rest of the family. A bottle of brandy was being passed around that had been picked up at one of the little markets we stopped at earlier in the day. After a few hours, I picked myself up off the floor and headed upstairs to my spot on the hardwood floor and let the sound of the nocturnal wildlife and the whirring floor fan sing me to sleep.
Wednesday, Oct. 5, 2011: We got up this morning with a very specific mission from Lor: Find my lost luggage. In a rush, or just plain forgetfulness, I miscounted the checked baggage when we got into Siem Reap almost a week ago. For some reason all the baggage was checked under my name and I should have counted six, but only counted five. We didn't realize we were short one bag until after a few days in country. So Toro, Vireak and myself piled into the Toyota Camry and headed back to the airport about two hours away.
Vireak is a very cautious driver and what should take anywhere from one and a half to two hours could have taken almost four hours if Toro hadn't taken the wheel. Along the way we stopped a few times so Toro could get in a few photos and a conversation (I swear he can't go more than 10 minutes without having to talk with someone), but finally got to the airport. Finding and claiming the lost bag was surprisingly easy and hassle free. I had visions of going through copious amounts of government paperwork and a series of 20 questions about why I was in the country, but instead we walked right up to the baggage claim window, saw the bag sitting in the far corner of the room and simply asked if we could get it back. "Sure," the guy said, "but you'll have to sign a few papers first and then it's all yours." Honestly, I thought the bag was long gone. Someone thought that no one was going to come back for it, there was no contact information it and they just walked off with it. I'm so glad we found it because there were a few things in it for the funeral as well as a DVD player that Lor uses often.

After about 10 minutes in baggage claim I walked out the front door, handed the bag off to Vireak and started looking for Toro. Naturally, I found him in some deep conversation with a few young adults, but that conversation ended fairly soon as I approached. I'm like that big, white elephant in the room that nobody can stop looking at. One of the young girls said to Toro, "When you go back to America and then come back to Cambodia, bring me a white man for a boyfriend." "Okay," Toro said, "What size?" She looked back at me pointing and said, "He'll do." Flattered, I had a good laugh at that.
Having successfully retrieved Lor's bag, the rest of the day was left up to our own devices. Vireak wanted to show us a massive man-made reservoir surrounded by rice fields as well as pick up some lunch. The reservoir was really nothing special, I was just glad to be in the good company of Vireak and Toro. I've seen fake bodies of water before. Actually, there is only one or two natural lakes in Texas. But the real interesting thing is that no matter how hard local officials try, they can't seem to populate the water with any plant or animal life. We learned this little fact through one of Toro's 30-minute conversations with a couple of guys sitting on a boat docked on shore. While Toro was doing his thing, I was approached by a young Buddhist monk, clad in the usual orange robes, who asked if he could practice his English with me. "Sure," I said. We exchanged all the usual pleasantries, "Hello, how are you?", "What is your name?", "Where are you from?", "How old are you?" I had a good time.
With food in hand, we started back down the road to Sisophon, but before eating, we decided to visit a local Buddhist temple. The temple was located on a the grounds of a school which was holding class, so we were instantly the center of attention when we drove onto the property. Or, I should say, I was the center of attention. It was a beautiful area and the monks in residence were gracious enough to show us around and explain all the paintings in the temple. After about an hour or so, we paid our respects and left to find a shady spot to have lunch.

First, let me say that Cambodian food is not for everyone, especially the everyday food that is eaten by ordinary Cambodians out in the countryside. The food is heavily spiced and herbed and can be found everywhere you look. What I mean by that is Cambodians eat just about every natural resource they can find. You could walk down any path, pluck a leaf from any tree and the next person you found could tell you 10 different recipes that leaf could be used in. Going to an open market is a brave decision because you will find out how the food you are eating is stored and preserved. If you do go to the market I would advise staying away from the meat and seafood sections. This ain't H.E.B. Fortunately, I'm an adventurous eater and I have come across some amazing food in this country.
After driving back halfway to Sisophon, we found a covered pavilion overlooking a small pond and ate lunch. On the lunch menu this afternoon was the ever present steamed rice, dried and grilled fish (heads on), fresh vegetables, a dish called amok (fermented fish paste that has the same scent and taste of a smelly cheese) and stuffed frog bodies. I don't know what was in the stuffing, probably didn't want to know or I might not have been bold enough to eat it.

After lunch and a video interview, we piled back into the car and decided to drive through the vast expanse of rice fields. Toro told me that during the rainy season Cambodians have control of the of the fields, but during the dry season, the fields are leased out to a Japanese company who can afford to irrigate the fields. As we navigate the dirt road, we make our way through a small village en route to another side of the expansive reservoir we visited earlier. At this particular site there was a large dam that allowed water to flow evenly into the rice fields. Vireak left Toro and I to wander around for ourselves while he drove back to the village to invite more friends to the funeral in a few days. As we walked the dam, Toro and I can across a group of young Buddhist monks taking a break from their studies. While Toro held another of his epic conversations, I took photos. After about an hour we started walking back toward the village, waiting for Vireak to return to pick us up. We arrived back at the house suitcase in hand much to Lor's excitement. It was a great day, ending in a family meal of more dried fish, fresh snails and greens and a few glasses of brandy with the guys.